Ootacamund, Ooty or Udhagamandalam nestled in the hills of the Niligiris, the Blue Mountains is located at an elevation of 7350 ft above sea level in the State of Tamilnadu, India. It is a plateau between the Western and the Eastern Ghats and falls under the UNESCO World network of Biosphere Reserve. It is one of the most beautiful and International renowned hill stations with stunning views and lush green valleys. The Blue Mountains name probably came from the smoky blue haze given off on warm days by the eucalyptus trees which covers most of the areas. Unlike other famous hill stations of the Indian sub continent, Ooty was not a part of any kingdom or empires. It is envisaged to be originally a tribal land occupied by a tribe known as The Todas. The Todas gave away a part of the town to John Sulivan, the then Governor of Coimbatore and in course of time the Niligiris terriority came in possession of the British East India Company.
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Ooty has the location's advantage of access from different directions. It is situated in the tri - junction of the Indian States of Tamilnadu, Karnataka and Kerala. It can be reached from Coimbatore in Tamilnadu by The Ghats of Kallar, ( NH 67 ), The Kotagiri Ghat ( SH 15 ) and The Manjur Ghat. It can be approached from Kozhikode - Sultan Bakerty in Kerala and Mysore in Karnataka through The Gudalur Ghat (NH 212 / 67) and The Sigur Ghat (SH 67 ).
We have lost count of the times we have traveled in these Ghat roads of the Blue Mountains. We have traveled in bright sunshine, at sundown, in chilly evenings, in dense fog with almost nil visibility, driven late into the night, in the heavy down pour during the monsoons, but each time the drive was a new experience. We could soak into the exotic species of flora and fauna, besides the deep ravings full of vegetation, the dense forests, the towering mountains, the gurgling streams during the monsoons and the miles and miles of evergreen carpeted tea gardens. We believe the Ghats of the Blue mountains has a psychiatric spiritual therapy to ward over the negativity that come up following any stressful experience. Each time we made a trip to the Ghats of The Blue mountains we came back rejuvenated.
Rarely has been a situation where The Niligiris have been totally cut off on all The Ghat routes. However it is always prudent to check on the road conditions before embarking on a road journey to Ooty. At times routes are closed due to landslides and the traffic is diverted to other ghats. We experienced one of the most devastating landslips in the Ghats of Kallar during November 2006 and the road was closed for months before it could be made motor able again. As far as possible travel by tourist after sunset is to be avoided.
One of the favorite and
most traveled transit location from south of
Ooty is the textile and engineering city of Coimbatore., Tamilnadu. Airlines fly in
and out of Coimbatore Airport and the flight timings are conducive to the needs
of the tourist. Barring the North - East of India, all major cities are connected
to Coimbatore by air. Train connectivity from all corners of the country is
excellent, the famed one is the overnight train from Chennai,The Nilgiris
Express. One can also travel the Konkan Railways along the west coast of India
and detrain at Palkard, a location 40 KMs from Coimbatore. Taxis can be hired
from the Coimbatore Airport and bus service availed from the Ooty Bus station at
Gandhipuram 7 KM away from the Airport and 2 KM away from the Railway station.
The drawback we found in the public transportation to Ooty was that there are no
facility of luxury buses or mini buses or share taxis from Coimbatore to Ooty.
Tourist are left to a choice of availing full taxis or avail the Tamilnadu
State Transport bus services from Gandhipuram.
Ooty from Coimbatore is 90
KM by road. As we travel towards Ooty, the majestic view of hills of the Blue Mountains are sighted and the excitement builds in
oneself with each passing kilometer. After a travel of an hour or so we hit the
town Metapulayam. This is the town where all roads from South of Ooty intersect
and the place where the Ghat roads to the Blue Mountains commence. The town is
also hub where all the vegetables from
Ooty and the surrounds reach to be dispatched to various cities and towns of
southern India. Mettapulayam was
the Railway station wherein in the
bygone days the famed Nilgiris Blue Mountain train awaited the arrival of the
Nilgiris Express from Chennai to transport
the tourist to Ooty, wending its way through hair raising curves and tunnels.
It was a sight to behold and had an
imprint in the memories of the tourist for years to come. The Nilgiris Blue
Mountain train was developed on the concept of ratchet and pinion track and
today the train runs from Coonoor to Ooty on purely as a symbolic tourist
joyride.
Mettapulyam is a natural
halting point for the tourist on their way to Ooty. A number of resorts have
mushroomed over the years and the most attractive is the Black Thunder Resort.
The resort has an inbuilt theme water park which has a natural look and feel with the
surrounding hills adding to the awe. The Theme park has the lazy river, wave pool, Thrillarium, Surf Hills, cannon ball, aqua bowl,side winder etc to thrill the crowd. It has a restaurant which serves ethnic
Tamil and Kerala delicacies. The boarding rooms
available is good and classy. It is an idle place to relax and spend a day before
continuing the journey to Ooty.
THE KALLAR GHAT
THE KALLAR GHAT
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The sight of a row of huge eucalyptus trees on the road welcomes us as we reach Coonoor at a height of 1850 m above sea level, the second largest hill station in the Nilgiris. The surrounds are picturesque with stunning views of the Coimbatore plains and the Nilgiris. It is an ideal base for trekking expeditions into the Nilgiris and is the Tea capital of the region with miles and miles of carpeted tea gardens. Coonoor is divided into Lower and Upper Coonoor. The lower Coonoor is a busy market place, densely populated and the roads with lots of traffic. Most of the buses from the plains originate and terminate in Coonoor, hence the buses add to the traffic menace The Coonoor Railway Station stands out in the surrounds catering to the tourists symbolic travel to and back from Ooty on the Nilgiris Mountain Train. As one climbs a kilometre or two the serene surroundings of Upper Coonoor welcome the tourists for there eyes to behold. Lined are beautiful bungalows with manicured lawns and gardens. It is one of the best residential locations in the country. The climatic conditions are ideal for the flora to blossom and the century old Sim's Park in Upper Coonoor built in 1874 is a must visit destination. The park has a number of rare trees and plants and is a Botanist delight and the icing on the cake is the annual fruit and vegetable show held in May. Further in case one has network with the authorities, there is a beautiful guest house deep inside Sim's Park where a night stay experience will touch the heart of lovers of ecology.
The Ghat road further winds its way through Arukkadu and Ketti Valley into Lovedale where the residential Lawrence School established in 1858 is situated. Five kilometers further the road hit Charring Crossing the center of Ooty town.
THE KOTGIRI GHAT
THE KOTGIRI GHAT
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It is believed that Kotagiri Ghat road SH 15 Mettupalayam - Kotagiri - Ooty is the probable route taken by John Sulivan during his discovery trips of the surrounds of Ooty in 1819 AD. It is a road less traveled than the Kallar or Coonoor Ghat as one has to travel an extra ten kilometers to Ooty. However, a decision to travel an additional ten kilometers will takes you through a journey of sheer bliss and pure ecstasy. As we leave behind Mettupalayam, soon we get to read sign posts Animal crossing - Drive slow. The rivulets of the Niligris drain into the Bhavani River which is ultimately restricted by the Lower Bhavani Dam creating the Bhavanisagar reservoir near Sathyamangalam in Erode District. These water bodies are the source of water for the animals and in early mornings and late afternoons we can sight animals commonly, deer and hordes of elephants. The Kotagiri Ghat Road gently climbs into the mountains with the stunning views the plains of Mettupalayam and Coimbatore and the water bodies of the Bhavani till we turn to reaches the toll gate for entry into Niligris District. This mountain falls in the range largely deprived of the Southwest Monsoons and are dominated by the dry scrub and volcanic rocks. Further for the same reason the landslips are minimal and turns out to be an all weather road. Unlike the Coonoor Ghats, the feel of the drive is smooth with the tyres caressing the winding road as we make gradual climb from one hill to another to reach Kotagiri, the age old Hill Resort of the British Empire established in 1819. The town is 16 kilometers short of Ooty at an altitude of 1950 meters above sea level . Kotagiri means Mountains of the Kotas tribe who are experts in the Art of pottery and terracotta. Kotagiri is situated in the shadow of the Dodda Betta Peak and famous for its salubrious climate. The tourist delights at Kotagiri are the Kodanad View Point, Elk falls and the Catherihene falls. The climatic conditions, the ecology, the weather, the landscape of Kotagiri are very familiar to surrounds in Britain and brought back memories of England which the Britishers had left behind for services to their Kingdom. It was a boon for the Englishman as they made it their summer home away from the hot and sultry Chennai. As we cross the small town of Kotagiri, we find a distinct change in the ecology. Slowly the look of an English countryside gives way to the evergreen fir and pine trees. There is chill in the weather as we approach the road leading to the Dodda Betta Peak, the highest mountain in the Niligiris District, a junction of the Western ghats and the Eastern Ghats, It attains a height of 2637 M or 8650 ft above sea level. It has a reserve forest all around and an observatory at the top where we can view the magnificent panoramic view of the Nilgiris through the telescopes. Another ten kilometers and the roads leads to Charring Cross, the center of Ooty town.
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Travelers coming from Bangalore & Mysore reach Gundulpet on NH 212 and taking the NH 67 cutting across Madhumalia National Park.to head for Gudular, can take a diversion at the junction of Theppakadu and take the SH 67 to Ooty. . The sanctuary reception office of Madhumalia National Park is located at Theppakudu. The forest department provides vehicles for visiting the Park. Theppakudu has also an elephant management camp and facilitates the tourists for joy elephant rides in the mornings and evenings. The sanctuary provides a rich posterity and environs of diverge wild life like Nilgiris Tahr, Bison, Sambar, Tiger, leopard , spotted deer, Nilgiris langur, and various species of resident and migratory birds. It is located at the base of Nilgiris hills and the Moya River partitions the Madhumalia Sanctuary from Karnataka Bandipur National Park. It has a dense deciduous forest of teak, laurel and rosewood and interspersed with grasslands swamps and bamboo forest. We had experienced the day treks of the Sanctuary and safari rides during the day and also late at night. It was a thrilling experience to sight number of bison sambar, herds of elephants and deer. The nearest we got to sighting a tiger was a trail of its pug marks. Sighting the pug marks excited us and imagine in case we actual sighted a tiger
walking towards us or crossing our trek trail. Anyway we were rewarded with our perseverance as we had sighted a leopard waiting to cross the road late in one of our many night rides in the Madhumalia Sanctuary.
THE SIGUR GHAT
The SH 67 commences from Theppakadu through Madhumalia and Masinasudi to Ooty. The road to Ooty is known as the Sigur Ghat or Kalhatti or Steep Ghat. The road has thirty six hair pin bends and very steep terrain. The road is basically a short cut to Ooty - only 33 KMs. The driver is to be well conversant with hill driving. Some portions are so steep that the car is driven in the first gear. But hats off to the foreign tourist whom we saw cycling up to Ooty on this route. She might have had some stamina and physical fitness. This ghat road is only allowed to be traveled during the day time. At night the route is closed to traffic. The Sigur Wildlife corridor has the highest density of elephants in India and many endangered vultures have been documented in the Sigur plateau, the connection between the Western and Eastern Ghat. Hence it has the maximum opportunity of sighting or elephants crossing the road. On this ghat road between the tenth and eleventh hairpin from the side of Thalaikundha, we had sighted the Kurunji Flower blooming along the ghats in the year 2006. The ghat road SH 67 leads to the junction of Thalaikundha where it meets the NH 67 from Gudular and continues to Ooty to reach Charring Cross.
THE MANJOOR GHAT
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Follow Me for Ootacamund and its surrounds in the Part 2 of Ootacamund and the Ghats of the Blue Mountains.