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Friday 25 December 2015

The Amdavad Wanderlust - Adalaj Vav


Stepwells known as Vav in Gujarati was built in ancient times to manage the source of ground water to the extent to make water available all-round the year to the public at large. An innovative retort to the water scarcity .The wells were dug deep into the earth and the walls were lined with blocks of stone without mortar and stair line developed leading down to the ubiquitous source of water. These Step wells being dug deep down and covered provided relief to the daytime heat. In course of time it became a happening place for leisure especially for the women folk and as time went by, the Vav became a place for religious and social gatherings.


Stepwells mainly consist of two parts, a vertical shaft from which water is drawn out and the adjacent environs having passageway and steps leading to the well. This lead to the building the surrounds of the step wells with decorative and architectural features associated with  prevailing times and thus ensured the survival of  Stepwells as monuments. It is believed that villagers would come every day in the morning to fill water, offer prayers to the deities carved into the walls and interact with each other in the cool shade of the Vav. These also turned as resting place for the travellers, pilgrims, traders and  merchants along their trade routes, as the place was well protected from natural and human elements and also cool and a quiet retreat during the hot summer months. The Stepwell offered them a place to bathe, rest, eat and remain protected. The Mughal ruler encouraged the building of Stepwells, but it was during the British Raj who found the concept unhygienic and hence had forced abandonment of the Step wells.

Adalaj Stepwell, perhaps Gujarat’s finest Vav is situated in the village of Adalaj,  18 KM from the City of  Ahmedabad in Gandhinagar district.


During 15th century, the region was known as Dandai Desh and ruled by a Hindu king, Rana Veer Singh of Vaghela dynasty. King Veer Singh had commenced the building of the Step Well at Adalaj, during which time  the Muslim King Mohammad Begda attacked and defeated the King. Mohammad Begda  proposed to the beautiful widow of King Veer to marry him. Queen Roopba agreed to the proposed nuptials on condition that the Stepwell will be completed prior to the marriage.  The Step well was completed in 1499 by Muslim king Mohammed Begda to win over Queen Rani Roopba.



On completion of the well, the Queen killed herself, hence fulfilling the dreams of her husband of building the Stepwell. This led to the  Adalaj ni Vav  being carved with various architectural style, merging Hindu and Islamic designs.



The Adalaj Vav is intricately carved was not just a cultural and utilitarian space, but also a spiritual refuge. The Vav is five stories deep with a remarkable feature of having three entrance stairs.  All three stairs meet at the first storey, which has an octagonal opening on top. 


There is an opening in the ceilings above the landing which allows the light and air to enter the octagonal well. However, direct sunlight does not touch the flight of steps or landings except for a brief period at noon. The  atmosphere inside the well is many degrees cooler than the outside and one finds the difference on a hot summer afternoon. 


The harmonious play of intricate Islamic floral patterns seamlessly coalescing into Hindu and Jain symbolism embody the culture and ethos of those times. All the walls carved by ornamentation, mythological scenes along with everyday scenes of women churning buttermilk, dancers accompanied by musicians, women adorning themselves. What mesmerise and captivates the visitors is the Ami Khumbor (a pot that contains the water of life) and the Kalp Vriksha (a tree of life) carved out of a single slab of stone. There is a belief that the small mural of navagraha (nine-planets) towards the edge of the well protects the monument from evil spirits.


The Crraft of Arts, host the annual Music Fest during the World Heritage Week at the site of Adalaj Stepwell. The sound and light effects are enjoyed by both the heritage and music lovers. The fusion of the sound of classical musical instruments with the modern keyboard, guitar and the drums amidst the environs  of the magnificently lit  structure of the 15th century Stepwell draw crowds in large numbers.  


This not only creates awareness of the historic monument but promotes efforts in conserving the heritage of yester years. The annual Water festival has become an annual ritual at the Adalaj Vaav, and it calls for appreciation to the organizers.