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Tuesday 14 August 2018

Samdrup Jongkhar - Guwahati's International getaway




Foreign travel has been a distant dream for most of us. The joy shows no bound as the overseas holiday plan is put in place and one waits eagerly for the day to commence the journey. Is foreign travel only for the blessed or the privileged ones . Will it surprise you if I draw out a international getaway for a couple days to experience all the flavours of a foreign destination. In case you have the desire and interest of surprising yourself and your family read on.

The destination is located two hour drive from Guwahati towards lower Assam on NH 31 One can enjoy the joyous of early morning drive across the mighty Brahmaputra river, soaking in the scenic beauty of the hills. Every time I cross this particular stretch there is a feeling that the surrounds should lap me up.



We need to take a detour from NH 31 at Rangiya and cut across the town. It can be maddening in case you intend to start late in the day as the traffic in the town is chocoblock. But once you cross Rangiya town,the paddy fields and small hamlets and beyond them the mountains gives a picturesque and pleasing view. The road too is well maintained except for the fact that there is no eatery or washroom enroute. A picnic basket will suffice in case you have started early or else the destination food awaits you.



The hundred kilometre drive brings us to one of the many entry points into the country where Happiness index has a over riding priority over GDP. Guess where we are. We are in Samdrup Jongkhar, the eastern border town of Bhutan.


It is customary for the passenger to get down from the vehicle at the gate and walk through the designated pass way into the territory of Bhutan The person driving the car drives the car through the gate. The passengers once again embark the car Iinside the territory of Bhutan. . No questions are asked by the guards stationed at the gate. It may be noted that tourists require to obtain a token in case they intend to stay over night in the border town.



One finds a remarkable change the moment you traverse through the gate inside Bhutan. With the sparingly per sq kilometre population of Samdrup Jongkhar, visitors are invited to a quiet sleepy border town. The architecture of the buildings give way to the design of Tibetan tradition of Buddhist architecture with captivating rich artistic embellishments and colours which is ever pleasing to our eyes. The streets are neat, clean surroundings, tree lined and people going about their business with the environs oozing of happiness and well being.

I expected Samdrup Jonkgar rather to be like a border town out of a western movie set of our bygone years with a Sheriff trotting with a gun with legs on the verandah railing waiting for trouble to brew but it was not to be. The vegetable market takes prominence over other establishments, dotted with shops, restaurants and hotels. Some have a verandah like enclosure extended towards the road where one eat or sip tea and watch the people stroll by. The town houses many  dance bars and liquor bars giving a feeling that the place is a  watering hole for the tourist.



Just ahead of the market is the Ramdey Dratsha monastery which houses the monastic community of Samdrup Jongkhar. Surprisingly the monastery even if it was not situated on a mountain top, the quietness of the place was remarkable giving out  lot of positive energy.


The murals inside the monastery were amazing and the colours left us spell bound. One can spend time meditating here at the monastery and carry the peace of mind home. The environs was indeed captivating and tempting for a return visit.



When in Samdrup Jonghar a must visit destination is the Chokyi Gyatso Institute at Deowthang located 18 Km away.Foreigners need to obtain a permit from the immigration office to travel beyond the town of Samdrup Jongkar. Passport or voter card are the documents required as a POI.Tourist need to carry a couple of recent passport size photographs too. Photograph and biometrics are taken at the time of issuance of permit. Permits for own vehicle can also be obtained. The whole exercise  rather takes considerable time and with a break for lunch by the immigration office it may not be possible to travel to Deothang and come back on the same day. It will be prudent to enjoy a night stay at Samdrup Jongkar and enjoy the local cuisine and the environs

I am of the opinion that one should have the local food when traveling places The reason being that the local food is based on the climatic conditions of the place hence one well being Secondly it gives insight into the cultural, economic prosperity, crops the place grows, eating habits and above all our taste buds have gets opportunity to have a great time

Was rather fascinated with the spiciness of the Bhutanese cuisine with (chillies) ema as it is called being the integral part of nearly every dish. Ema - Datshi (cheese) is known as the national dish of Bhutan.  Ema - chilly Kewa (Potato) being the base of the recipe. The dishes are mostly non vegetarian like Pork or Chicken - Datchi, Maru or Paa to go along with Jaju - (Soup ) Jangbali-bhutanese noodle, Maida khulay (roti). If the Bhutanese food does not interest you the hotels serve Indian, Chinese and Tibetan food too.





We made an early start for the next morning. With due check at the immigration point, we made our way to Deothang. Soon we began our climb through the lush green Himalayan foothills with the view of the plains of Assam becoming picturesque as we took another turn up the hill.


Deothang situated at 3000 MSL enjoys a more pleasant weather than Samdrup Jongkar. The town with resembles more of an Indian Hill station than a Bhutanese establishment. History tells us that during the Duar war 1864-65 under the terms of the Treaty of Sinchula, Bhutan ceded territories in the Assam Duars and Bengal Duars ad well as the 83 sq KM of the territory of Dewangiri . Hence the impact of English environs.



Overlooking the village is the Chuoki Gyatso Jongkhar Institute of Buddhist studies a college in the Nyingma tradition of Buddhist. It is another abode for monastic community which functions as a shedra ( college) where monks are able to study and practice their religion. An ideal place to be for meditating and spending a quiet time in these serene conditions.

As we made our way back to the Indian sub continent, we were required to tear away from this picturesque, tranquil and serene surroundings. A fortunate stroke of serendipity bought us to this peaceful country, a place where I am sure will be visited again and again  Adieu !