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Friday 3 May 2019

Umaim Lake, Meghalaya – A Luncheon Getaway

Umiam Lake
Shillong, capital of the Indian State of Meghalaya, known as the Scotland of the East has been my favourite destination since my childhood days. Having spent the best years of my teens, the place had always been close to my heart. The crisp cool air, the smell of the pines, the smoke wailing out of the fire place, happy faces around, dreamy colonial bungalows, the sporadic rains, black ambassador  taxis, city buses venting out the  of the exhaust from the roof, the markets-Police bazaar and Bara bazaar, the restaurants Ec, New India and Delhi Mistan Bhandar, the pipe smoking smartly dressed gentlemen, fashionable ladies in best of the attire, the schools - St Edmund, Saint Mary,  Pine Mount and Loreto Convent, the colleges - St Anthony, St Edmund and Lady Keene lighted up the atmosphere in Shillong as a whole. The musical nights and fetes added glamour to life, with Polo ground, Don Bosco Square, Laitumkhrah, Dhankheti, Laban, Ward lake were the places we frequented. Life was indeed at its best.

But sadly, Shillong today is far from its distant past. The concrete jungle, the maddening traffic, parking slot a distant dream, choc - block and chaotic bazaars, nightmarish traffic congestion on the Mawlai and Shillong stretch, with none knowing when they will reach their destination has lead us to avoid the city. However to keep abreast with the beauty of the environs of Shillong, we started frequenting the places in and around Shillong with Barapani or Umiam lake resorts becoming our base camp.

Umiam means water of eyes or water of tears is believed to be formed from a   mythological based story and Barapani means big water called by its natives for its utter size. The man made water body was created by damming the Umiam river in the early 1960, the principal catchment area of the lake and dam  spreading over 220 KMs. 

It’s takes just over an hour and half hour drive from Guwahati to Barapani. NH 40 is the main artery connecting the States of Assam, Meghalaya and Tripura. The 62 km expressway between Jorabat and Barapani section of NH 40 had been accorded on Design, Build, Finance, Operate and Transfer (DBFOT) basis in BOT (Annuity) mode of delivery under Special accelerated road development programme - North East in the year 2006 with the road project completing in 2016. The four lane expressway has made a remarkable change in our quest to travel the region by road.

It was in 1865 when the new cart road linking Shillong with Guwahati was formally opened to traffic. It would take three days to cover the distance in a bullock cart. In 1888, the first horse drawn tonga service was introduced with twelve stables along the road so that every five to six miles the horses were changed for the sake of rest for the horses and maintaining the speed with a fresh set of horses. The journey was undertaken at a cost Rs 30 either way and the 64 miles was covered in a day. The first motor service on the Shillong - Guwahati road was introduced in 1906 with a fleet of seven Albion cars which ran on solid tyres. The credit of introducing the horse tonga and the first motor service between Shillong to Guwahati belongs to Khan Bahadur Kasimuddin Molla, son of Golam Hyder from Hooghly. 

Must stop - halting point
In fact, a few decades ago the Guwahati - Shillong road was one way, that is all vehicles either way were made to halt in Nongpoh. Maybe that is why today also Nongpoh continues to be the natural halting point of motorist and truckers.  

Guwahati - Shillong Highway, a carvers delight
Presently the highway is comparable to the best of the roads in the country.The sublime end of the world landscapes along the route will excite the best of the travel maniacs. Travelling deeper into Meghalaya, one can experience the demographic, environmental and climatic change. 

Fruit vendors on Guwahati-Shillong Highway
As we cross the town of Byrnihat, the border town of Meghalaya, we pass by numerous fruit vendors selling their merchandise. The roads begins to slowly climb against the back drop of lush green mountains, tree groves, tea gardens, and then begins to drop into the valley between Umsning and Umiam, climbing again with number of S turns increasing, a driving delight as one carves around the corners.

Umiam Lake, Barapani
It was love at first sight, it’s a like a blot from the blue, the beauty of Umiam lake is mesmerising, picturesque and breathtaking. Encompassed by thick coniferous forests the crystal blue water body draws its resemblance with the Lochs or Lakes of Scotland and is a contributing factor in naming Shillong as the Scotland of the East. 


Orchid Resort and Water Sports Complex
The tranquil azure water of Umiam lake is a popular destination for kayaking, water cycling, scooting, boating, angling, swimming, water sliding, camping, trekking  and adventure sports. 
The best views of Umiam Lake can be captured from the Orchid Lake Resort which is housed within the Umiam Water Sports Complex. The resort is operated by the Meghalaya Tourism Department.


Umiam Lake View - Orchid Resort
 The stay in the resort is pleasant, with reasonable tariffs, with view of the lake magnificent, facilitated with a swimming pool. The early morning walk by the side of the lake is enthralling. However at times the place becomes crowded especially during lunch time as the day trippers add to the guest staying in the resort.

Umiam Lake View -  Ri Kynjai 
Another resort rather exclusive and high end is Ri Kynjai, which is located on the western side of the lake. ” Serenity by the lake “ in Khasi, Ri Kynjai offers a perfect gateway from the hustle bustle of city life, a perfect place to rejuvenate while doing nothing. 


Ri Kynjai, Barapani
The hotel has been designed on the lines of traditions of original Khasi thatch huts, providing eastward orientation, each cottage offering a view of the lake and the highlight is the sunrise view. Ri Kynjai has found itself mentioned in the list of room with a view, a view with food, one of the best romantic getaways and with its astounding environs indeed provides value for money.

Ri Kynjai - Food with a view
The Path - Ri Kynjai

So whenever your chips a down and you need a break, getaway early in the morning, have sumptuous breakfast at Nongpoh, bask in the sun at Barapani, enjoy the serene panoramic sights, have lunch with a view by the side of the Umiam lake in one of the resorts  and drive back feeling top of the world.